Friday, May 18, 2012

High-Waisted Nautical Shorts


If I were a little more dedicated to awesome photos, I would've tried to figure out if I could sneak on board a yacht or something so that I could caption my picture "I'M ON A BOAT!"* But alas, I am not, so this will have to do.

I'M ON A PLAY STRUCTURE!
Blatantly ignoring the age recommendations! (And yes, that is a tiny, functional spyglass I'm looking through.)

Too loose over that dip, and not quite fitted through the thigh.
As you can see, I've finished my high-waisted, vaguely retro, nautical-only-in-that-the-buttons-have-anchors-on-them, wearable muslin shorts! The striped top I tried to make to go with it was an utter and craptastic fail, so instead, I cut off the bottom of what used to be an extremely long (to the point of unwearability) RTW tee for a whole nautical outfit.

I started out with a McCall's 6266 pattern from 1978, but ended up modifying it a lot to get closer to the look I wanted. It was originally a size 8, which fit in the waist and nowhere else; I took out a couple inches in the back and added an inch in the front, brought in the inseam, increased the crotch depth, and errrr, unsteepened the curve of the crotch in the back. I am pretty impressed with how the pattern fits my swayback without any darts, and the changes were time-consuming (quality time with my seam ripper!), but not difficult. I'm still not pleased with the bagging under my butt; it looks like I'm going to have to check out the fish-eye dart adjustment that Liz mentioned. I also need to figure out how to correct the front crotch area -- it's too loose over the weird dip between my pelvis and bulging quads. The looseness there used to be a lot worse, but I could only correct so much without cutting and sewing up a whole new pair of shorts. The thigh area itself suffers a little from my indecisiveness regarding the style I wanted, as I couldn't decide if I wanted them super fitted, or flaring out a little like Justine's playsuit...so now they're this weird amalgam of questionable flattering-ness.

The shorts as originally shown in the pattern are very short, so with all the added length they sort of turned into this vast expanse of dark blue. I felt like it needed something to add interest, so I sewed on two tabs and some gold buttons. The back, however, is plain, except for the unfortunately visible centered zipper. Tabs on the back don't seem to make much sense, though, so I'm just leaving it as is. Honestly, I don't have to look at it, so I'm not especially bothered by it.

The one side is ultra-wrinkly because of the way I'm standing.
The waistband piece in the pattern was really just a long rectangle, but this results in gaping both in front and back, so if I were to make this again I'd probably try to draft a curved waistband. It's not too bad, though, and the back gaping isn't anywhere near as bad as the gaping I typically get with RTW low-waisted pants, so I'm willing to let it slide this time. I must say, it's remarkable not having to worry when I bend over or sit down! As for the cuffs, they took some spatial reasoning at night while I was supposed to be sleeping, trying to figure out how to attach them so that my pinked seams wouldn't show. I still need to tack them down, but I like this look much better than just blind-hemming them.

I'm on an elephant!! Check out the relatively small gape at the back...I would never climb on play structures in my usual pants because of the low waistbands. I totally get Steph of 3hourspast's whole thing about high waistbands now!

Side view.
Summary:
Fabric: About a yard of slightly stretchy 54" cotton twill for each muslin...thankfully, this fabric was $1/yard (and the same as my 1912 scalloped skirt!)
Notions: Fusible interfacing in the waistband, 7" zipper, hook and bar, four metal anchor buttons
Techniques: Making alterations to a pants pattern? There wasn't really any difficult sewing here, just difficult fitting.
Hours: At least seven, including the 1.5 hours spent on my first, unwearable muslin. That pair (sans zipper) has been relegated to cat bed status.
Will you make this again? Not shorts, but I do want to make pants again! Almost immediately after finishing this pair, I wanted to try making slim-fitting capris, but (thankfully?) I didn't have any other suitable bottom-weight fabric. I want to get some stretch denim and heavier stretch cotton twill, possibly in some blinding color like kelly green or coral. But first, I should probably perfect my pants block.
Total cost: About $6, but I don't remember how much the buttons cost, as I think they were in a bulk bag from a discount bin (but I have so many gold-colored nautical buttons I could be remembering wrong).
Final thoughts: I think for my first foray into pants-making, these aren't bad, but they're not great either. They're comfy and I'll wear them, but I can see that a good pants block will take some time. In the meantime, these were easy enough that they're a good confidence booster. I'm not convinced that high-waisted pants are the way to go for my body type, but since I like high-waisted dresses and skirts I thought I would just start here.

Can I pretend I'm hanging off of rigging?
I mean, I guess technically I am, it's just that the rigging is all of a foot off the ground.

I'm wearing red flippy-floppies wedgie-wodgies?

*I'm not usually a fan of songs with excessive explicit language, but Lonely Island is my weak spot...I don't know why I find their songs so hilarious. I mean, "This ain't my dad, this is a cell phone!?" That's brilliant.

42 comments:

  1. I could not find these more adorable if I tried.

    No, I lie. If you were wearing a nautical themed pashmina afghan, that would be better. Fail.

    strugglesewsastraightseam.wordpress.com

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    1. I will work on learning to knit, then work on a nautical afghan. It might take decades, but stay tuned! ;)

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  2. Love,love,love. You need to retake pics on a boat, these are just too awesome.

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    1. If I ever have a chance to be on a boat, you can bet I'll be wearing these!

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  3. i love this look for you, and the shorts are a wonderful length, color and style even with all of the hassles they put you through. it's feminine and elegant and playful without being too young, really just a wonderful look for the summer months.

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    1. Wow, that was like reading ad copy...thank you!

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  4. Those look fantastic! I love the high waist and I'm beginning to see the appeal of a higher waist as well. Your shorts look great!

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    1. Thanks! I was dubious about the high waist, too, but I am really liking it!

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  5. These are great, C! I love love love your photos, and while it's a look I'm not used to seeing on you, I think its a good one. :) Love it.

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    1. If I'm making high-waisted pants, it's because of your pinkie pants inspiration! I'm so glad that my first shorts attempt passes muster with you!

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  6. Haha! They look like my pants but a nicer shade of blue and a cuter length, I love how they turned out :)

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    1. I did indeed think of you and your pants when I was planning these...thanks!

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  7. Oh.my.goodness! These shorts are amazing! They are seriously so cute and stylish! And with that top, red shoes, and pin curls?! Get out of town! You are so freaking adorable! The last pic is my fave. I love the colors of the play structure with the colors of your outfit! Congrats on finishing your first pair of shorts! Can't wait to see what's next:)

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    1. I am already out of town ;)

      Thanks for pushing me to make these! I wouldn't have done it without your encouragement!

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  8. I love this. I love it do much!! Once I loose some weight in the tummy area I AM MAKING THESE, after I found a pattern similar to yours. They are so cute!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm on the iPhone now but I can't wait to go on my laptop to see the pictures again on a larger screen. U did an amazing job with this big cheers for u!!!!

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    1. Thank you so much, Neeno! I think high-waisted shorts can actually be quite forgiving to tummy bulge, as there's no danger of muffin-tops. Depending on the cut and thickness of the fabric, I can see them acting almost like a girdle...

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  9. Those are awesome - I really love the longer length of shorts! I love how you styled them.

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    1. Thank you! I, too, am enjoying the longer-than-most-RTW-shorts length!

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  10. I think the high waisted style really suits you, and your pictures are so much fun!

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    1. Thank you! I enjoyed taking the pictures too, even if some passers-by looked awfully confused...

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  11. These are fantastic! Not perfect, but pretty darn good! And you look so cute climbing around on your "yacht". ;-) I would have never thought of taking pictures on cool playground equipment.

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    1. I only thought of taking pictures on the playground because of the rigging-esque bit, but I'm glad you appreciated them! And thank you for acknowledging that they aren't perfect...I know I have lots of room to grow!

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  12. Cute shorts indeed and fabulous photos. I love how you made them nautical with the buttons. To avoid all those fitting problems and the annoyance of undoing what you just sewed, I would definitely have adjusted the pattern. I do quite a bit of pattern grading and the book I use is Concepts of Pattern Grading by Kathy K Mullet. I find it very useful when re-sizing a pattern as it tells you how to keep things in proportion, for example darts move proportionally to the side seams. Altering the pattern seems hard at first but once you get the hang of it it saves you loads of time.

    I have actually just been doing some pattern grading on my blog - not for shorts but you get the general idea! http://unique-1985.blogspot.com/

    I hope this helps :-)

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    1. Thanks for sharing your link and book tip! I will keep in mind your tips for when I next grade up a pattern.

      I adjusted the pattern after I made my first muslin, but rather than make a second, third, and fourth muslin, I just kept correcting my second muslin and making corresponding changes to my paper pattern. Being that it was my first time ever making pants, trial and error made more sense to me than just adjusting a pattern for things I wasn't sure of. Now that I've seen some of how slope and depth can affect the overall shape, I think I have a better idea of how to adjust the pattern.

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  13. Wedgie-wodgies! Ahahahaha! Fantastic shorts, they're completely adorable. :)

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    1. Thank you! I was unsure at first on how to adjust "wedges" into a "flippy-floppy" equivalent, but I'm glad you approve of my final choice ;)

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  14. What shorts! They already fit you so much better than what the eye must get used to with RTW - I actually didn't notice the parts you mentioned til you mentioned them!

    I think you have a very good figure for high-waisted - make use of it! I've been dithering back and forth over whether to try making a Bella - love the look, but every time I see figures like yours and think about my own, my heart quails!

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    1. What is a Bella? I'm afraid I don't know! Regardless, I think you should go ahead and try making shorts -- my heart was quailing within me, too, but sometimes I just have to do it or else I'll just wibble forever...

      I agree that the fit isn't bad for if they were RTW, but being that they're supposed to be made for me, I am still hoping for better!

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  15. What a cute outfit. These do not look like a first try at trouser fitting, more like pretty near spot on.
    I wouldn't worry about the creases above the thigh curve. Unless you use a very flowy and/or non creasing synthetic fabric, trousers that are fitted across the abdomen and in the thigh will always crease in this region. You have to be able to sit down or the trousers are useless for real life.

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    1. Thanks for the reassurance! However, when I look at the trousers from a straight side profile, I do see a little bulge that I think can be taken out to at least make it flat. I know I do need sitting ease, but I'm pretty sure I have too much in that area. That said, these shorts are extremely easy to move around in!

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  16. Oh honey, I just love these shorts on you so much! You are completely rocking the high waist look, and with that shirt and those shoes, you have a magnificent ensemble :) So very well done!

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    1. Thank you for the high-waist vote of approval! I was definitely pleased with how the whole look came together!

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  17. Your figure looks fantastic in these shorts, especially your booty. Great job! :D

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    1. Hahahaha I didn't realize quite what a booty I had until I made these shorts...thanks!

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  18. Saw your shorts on Cotton and Curls and had to jump over and tell you how fantastic they are!! I'm obsessed with them! Now i've gotta go find a pattern and make my own! They are adorable!!

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    1. Thank you! I think you can pretty much take any pants pattern and just add tabs and buttons to make them nautical!

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  19. Those shorts make me want to swab a deck or stowaway in a giant cask. Or just stroll around on a beautiful deck drinking a vintage cocktail and saying things like "Ahoy matey!" and "Walk the plank!" Which is to say, extremely nautical. Amazing shorts Cation!

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  20. I've just finished my first attempt at trousers as well. I also made them into shorts as I only had a small amount of spare fabric to play with. Feel free to laugh at them here. Yours will look flawless after seeing mine!

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  21. These are adorable! The style actually looks like the pants pattern I just cut out (Lisette Portfolio Pants). Nice foray into pants-making: harder to fit than dresses, but definitely worth it.

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  22. "I'm on an elephant!" plus you on a tiny elephant is the best evah! These turned out fabulous! And yay for minimizing the back gap, which is the number one reason to sew bottoms, in my opinion/for my body. I have that same issue with plevis bones sticking out, then bulging quads. Can't quite figure out how to fix it without resulting in a pants tent.

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