Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Steampunk-Flavored Blouse In Progress

This week's project: my next VPLL 1912 Project pattern, the strangely constructed #0219 blouse. At first glance, it didn't look too difficult, which is why I selected it. See, I've never made a non-stretchy top before (cat pajama Sorbetto doesn't really count), much less a button-down blouse. So, in the spirit of go-big-or-go-home, I decided that my first blouse pattern needed to not only be a multi-piece pattern, it also needed to be so vintage that it doesn't come with instructions. I thought that not having to do set-in sleeves would make it a lot easier, but let me tell you, it is the bizarrest sleeve construction I have ever seen! It's this odd zigzag of sleeve-to-underarm-to-bodice-side; I almost thought it was a mistake in the pattern at first. Anyway, after mulling it over and experimenting with pin-basting, I realized that it was not unlike sewing underarm gussets in technique, and proceeded wibble less, and sew more. And now that I've done it, I have to say it's one of the cleverest sleeve constructions I have ever seen as well! I may or may not try to duplicate this in the future if I'm feeling particularly ambitious...

The red line indicates the seam line...that's all one continuous stitch!

Also, in case you didn't notice, the fabric is printed all over with these little clocks! From far away, it kind of just looks like a drab, vaguely-floral, ugly prairie-dress print, but up close, well, you must agree with me when I say I thought it was perfect for a steampunk-y Edwardian blouse. I found it in the $1/yd bin at Fabric Planet (the same one Oona was recognized at!), so I'm not exactly sure what it is. It feels like a nice cotton lawn, though, so I figured it would work for a blouse. To bring out more of that ubiquitous steampunk-y brown color, I threw in some piping at all the relevant seams. After the brain-stress of the sleeves and the piping around corners, though, I didn't yet feel like tackling all those buttonholes, so instead I opted to just make my buttons decorative and have the front close with snaps instead.

Brass-colored filigree-ish buttons covering the hidden snaps underneath.
Also, they are attempting to distract you from noticing how rippled the bias strip got on the button band.

I'm really pleased with how nice all the seam binding looks inside!

Anti-climactic reveal of the blouse so far: pretty shapeless. Also, I didn't even try to match the print.

I know, it doesn't look like much yet. I promise it looks much better when it's tucked into a skirt and not just poofing out all over the place! So, the next step is adding the cuffs and collar. Unfortunately, the pattern doesn't come with a cuff pattern either, so it looks like I'll just be winging it with an appropriately-sized rectangle and lots of staring at the existing cuffed blouses in my wardrobe. As for the collar, it's supposed to detachable, but I really don't even know how that would work. Here are the pattern pieces...any ideas?

Both collar pieces are labelled "upper collar." You can also see the oddly shaped bodice/sleeve combo piece.

20 comments:

  1. Cute! I love the little clocks!

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    1. Thanks! I don't think I would've looked twice at this fabric if it weren't for the little clocks!

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  2. Ok, that is cool, and that sleeve construction is FASCINATING! Thanks for showing the picture of the pattern pieces.

    I have a (not nearly so cool) shirt pattern I've been meaning to try myself, but am easily distracted. Given that the fabric isn't a stripe, though, I would've been tempted to just cut the button-band on the straight grain.

    So is this going to be part of a new steampunk costume? ;)

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    1. Darn it, why didn't I think of just cutting it on the straight grain? Sometimes me "just screw the pattern directions" sense deserts me at the most inpopportune moments. But yes, this is going to be part of a whole new steampunk ensemble...I wasn't happy with how many parts of my previous one were not me-made.

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  3. I have that very same fabric! From the same place, except when I bought it it wasn't in the $1 bin! And yes, it is cotton, at least that's what I was told, but it definitely feels and irons like cotton. I am currently making it into a shirt!

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    1. Thanks for confirming that it's cotton! I'm sorry you paid more than a dollar for it, but it's pretty awesome so it's still worth it? I look forward to seeing your shirt!

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  4. Maybe the collar is like the vintage paper collars men used to wear - those just button in the front and go over or under the edge of the shirt. That way you could just change your collar if it got dirty during the day and look fresh & clean for dinner.

    I like you fabric lots!

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    1. Brooke's idea makes total sense when you look at that drawing. One pattern piece is the outside and the other the inside. She was commenting at the same time I was.
      regards,
      Theresa

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    2. Hmmm, yeah, there are buttonholes marked on one of the collar pieces, but I still need to puzzle through how it would all work. Thanks for the information!

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  5. The detachable collars were basted in place, then detached to launder or replace.Considering what you went through to do laundry, washing the collars separately and more frequently makes sense. However, looking at the drawing, the collar doesn't seem to attach to a stand or the neck.How mysterious.
    Now I want to make this blouse too!
    regards,
    Theresa

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    1. Yeah, I figured that the collar must detach for washing, but I still can't figure out *what* it is attaching to. I have a feeling it's one of those pattern pieces that is just a rectangle, so no piece is included.

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  6. i love that you approached it as "steampunk"-y, because that totally gives it a bit of extra flavor. that sleeve looks really interesting and i can't wait to see the blouse paired with a skirt or some trousers to really see how it looks!

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    1. Honestly, when I first looked at it I thought it was pretty boring...but then I realized the only shirt-appropriate fabric I had was this clock fabric, and it just went from there. I'm also working on a skirt to go with this blouse, so hopefully I will finish that soon!

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  7. ooohhh! Really interesting sleeve construction ! I love it! Still working on my first 1912 pattern...I seem to have lost momentum!!

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    1. Oh, I hope you gain momentum soon, as these patterns are really so fun to work with! They are not like anything else I've ever sewn before. Can't wait to see your versions!

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  8. IIRC, the detachable collar has its own stand, which will button to the collar stand on the blouse. Often the "button" was a little stud like they use on tuxedos. Collars needed a lot more starch than the rest of the shirt to stay crisp, so were laundered differently for that reason as well.

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  9. I have this blouse in my queue too. And your post really encourages me to get on with it - even at the collar and cuffless stage it looks good. I originally thought it would be just an interesting exercise in sewing without instructions but having seen it on you I think it is very wearable. I shall now choose suitable contemporary fabric!

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    1. Oh, it looks even better tucked into a skirt! When I gathered it up in my hands (and therefore couldn't hold a camera to take a picture), I actually got giddy about how good it looked. I think it would totally work in a more contemporary fabric!

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  10. I love how you bind the insides. Love it. Love it. Love it! So pretttttyyyyyyyy! Gorgeous blouse. Oh and today I went to go check out buttons like you suggested for my skirt... omg i had no idea how expensive buttons are!

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  11. You could make any shape of collar. Look at on-line pictures of the era you are going for (or since it is steam punk...copy a collar you like in your own closet.) If it were my shirt, I'd go for a lay down collar in the shape that mimics the shape of your piping. (The drawing is a stand up collar...I haven't tried one of those yet.) Attach it to a yoke like piece of fabric. The yoke peice is tucked inside the neck line of the bodice and that is where you do your basting. The basted collar served two purposes, one is easy laundering and the second is to create a new look...it is treated almost like changing your jewlery.

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