Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Sewing Pants Is Easy

What to do it you have smile or frown lines on your pants when standing
Don't you love how they're called smile and frown lines?

Sewing pants is easy...but fitting pants is a different story. Oh, I'm sorry, were you expecting me to reveal a secret sewing tip that would suddenly make pants-sewing (or trouser-sewing, so that my UK readers don't giggle madly) miraculously simple? Because I don't have one. As far as I know, there's no pants foot that I can install or lever to engage on my machine that will suddenly make all my pants look awesome. I will say, though, that sewing pants that fit is theoretically possible given enough time and patience. How do I know? Because I've decided to face my sewing demon and actually try making pants. Okay, actually shorts, since they take less fabric, but same idea.

Altering your pants pattern for a rounded tummy or full derriere or swayback
Rounded and full...I like their adjective choice.

The picture also seems to promise that if you make
these pants, your legs will suddenly be 1.5 times longer.
What made me suddenly decide that I could take on pants? Well, first off, I thrifted this McCall's 6266 "Carefree Patterns" pants pattern, circa 1978. I knew I wanted to start my pants journey with high-waisted sailor-esque shorts, and this looked simple (and high-waisted) enough for me -- not even a dart or fly front to be seen! I was also thrilled to open it up and find an extremely helpful and confidence boosting "Pants Fitting A B C's" insert that explained how to make the most common pants alterations.

Armed with this insert, I proceeded to cut out and sew my first muslin. I didn't take any pictures because it was so horribly laughable, but I'll just say that it somehow managed to be both smile-line city in front (indicating it was too tight) and ultra-baggy loose in the back. Also, in a fit of concern, I cut the waist way too big and ended up needing to take it back in. I ripped out the zipper (my only 7" dark blue one in my possession!) and proceeded to alter the heck out of my pattern pieces. My second pair of shorts only took an hour to sew up (hence, sewing pants is easy!), but another couple hours to alter (hello, seam ripper, you are my good friend) into public-wearability status. Even so, they've still got issues, but I'm going to leave it for now as a good-enough-for-now pair of shorts. I just need to add my sailor buttons and hem them and then they'll be totally finished.

Altering pants that are baggy, too loose, or too tight

Friends, I have been bitten by the pants bug. I am now bound and determined to make my own knock-off Clovers, possibly in denim, and possibly with a fly front. There, I'm declaring it publicly; please hold me to my promise.

19 comments:

  1. Look forward to seeing your pants!

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  2. I can't wait to see your pants! I've been very scared of sewing/fitting them for myself, but every example I see in blogland puts me one step closer to actually doing it. :)

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  3. Ooo looking forward to seeing them. Got my eyes on the Clover.

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  4. I got an awesome "How to Sew Pants" Vogue pattern from the 70's. It's a step by step pants course - you're supposed to make your muslin in gingham so you can more closely identify problems. It's an autumn mission, for sure. Excited to see you shorts! They sound super cute.

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  5. I don't think I've ever sewn pants/shorts other than pajama pants and elastic waisted shorts (basically boxers without a fly). Good luck! Might I suggest a slightly stretchy fabric? Could be a bit more forgiving. But perhaps that's cheating the challenge ;)

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  6. I'm about to tackle pants too... In fact I just bought Pants for Real People to hopefully make the fitting process a bit easier. Hopefully it's not too outrageously difficult!

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  7. Woot! Can't wait to see your shorts! Look at you! Facing your fears! You rock!

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  8. I never seen it before. A lot of thanks.

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  9. Oh lovely fitting guide. I might actually get round to making a pair of shorts for myself soon!

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  10. I can't wait to see them!! Without fail I also have issues finding RTW wear pants so I imagine I will have major fitting issues when/IF I sew my own.

    That vintage pant pattern is so cute!!!! I can already picture u wearin them

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  11. Pants - sewing for the brave. I can't wait to see you succeed! And if, along your journey, you find some wonderful trick, please do tell!

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    1. Oh, and this little tidbit I found once while trawling the interwebs may be of some help: http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-227.html
      It's got some pretty decent looking info about taking measurements, as well as some intelligent body shape descriptions. I hope it helps you!

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  12. I'm glad to see you're tackling pants. I'm glad I got over my fear, and I'm sure you'll be cranking out perfectly fitting skinnies before you know it.

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  13. I used to make pants when I was in college. Now I only make elastic waist ones out of silks. They look good but I feel like I'm cheating. Keep inspiring me!

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  14. Ahh pants. They are always a bit tricky unless you draft a pattern from scratch or trace the crotch depth from a pair that already fits you well. Once you find that perfect slope for your croth depth, it is magic. =)

    Try combining a pattern you like with the slope from a pair you already have and like - just turn them inside out and trace the line onto your pattern.

    Making a pants pattern for myself is something I need to do at some point, but I've been lazy, hehe. Good luck with your quest!

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  15. pants are super hard to fit but I'm glad you're undertaking the task. Good luck!

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  16. Good luck! I can't wait to see your first venture. That insert is brilliant - so simple and clear. Oddly, I've never had much of a problem sewing pants, but I suspect that I more because I have an easy shape to fit than any brilliance on my part.

    And, of course, if you have any issues the Consulting Dressmaker is a fabulous resource!

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  17. I feel your pain! I am currently doing the same thing and have plumped for a 'beginners' BurdaStyle pattern with darts but no waistband as my first attempt! Currently on my second toile. Am starting to think my body is only designed for dresses! :)

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  18. Thank you *sew* much for posting this. It is exactly what I needed!

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