Friday, September 14, 2012

Cowl-Necked Top from Swimsuit Fabric?

My apologies if you actually like any of this and I've accidentally insulted you.
At the beginning of this year, I got a donation of several bags of fabric from a lady at church. Most of it was home decor and sequined fabric samples (i.e. unusable squares), and some of it was weird but still usable (oddly enough, three pieces got made into corsets). I think the lady was some kind of swimwear or old-lady-wear designer, though, because there was quite a bit of spandex in there labeled "five rolls" or "four yards," presumably listing available yardage, all in errrr, old lady prints (what my mom would calle "古老" or "老土" prints). Better yet, they all felt like the fabric you would see in swimsuit shells. I was going to donate all of it in my stash purge -- I mean, why hold onto things that you don't think you'll ever use? Especially in hideous prints and fiber content? 

I did save this one piece, though -- it's a border print, and not quite as garish in color or print as the rest. I thought it could at least be used as a (wearable?) muslin for a cowl-necked top. I took my not-a-Renfrew block, traced, slashed, and spread according to this tutorial, and ended up with this top. For a quick experiment in a meh fabric, it turned out pretty well. In the future, I'm going to spread my slashes a little more for a more pronounced drape, as well as lower the front neckline. Right now it looks a little odd, like I started tying a bandanna around my neck, only it somehow expanded and morphed into an entire top (oh gosh, doesn't that sound like the worst horror movie ever? You find a mysterious bandanna, so you try it on, only to find that it envelops your body and you can't take it off, ever, and the worst is that it's non-breathable, shiny polyester! Duhn duhn duhn!!!)...but then, that might just be the admittedly Walmart-bandanna-esque kelly green and floral print. 

The back is pretty uninspiring. Also, if I'm adding so much extra fabric to the front, is there
a way to get the top to be less baggy, while still being able to cut the pieces on the fold?

Paired with my Leonora shorts.
I didn't bother finishing any of my edges, since this was just an experiment, and also because my machine hates this material with a passion (could it be that my sewing machine is like the loyal dog that tries to warn its master, only to fail miserably because of the pigheadedness of the master?). I tried to do my normal knit-edge finish, but machine just chewed it all up and spat it out with holes in it. I ended up just cutting off that part and leaving all the edges raw. 

Summary:  
Fabric: 2/3 yard of a border print poly-spandex fabric. Tissue-thin, slightly shiny, and mortal enemies with my machine.
Notions: None
Hours used: Less than one, since there was no finishing involved...it was literally four seams, that's it!
Will you make this again? I would like to try this again with a better fabric, but with the changes I mentioned above. And I am definitely never using this type of fabric again, not even if it's printed with kittens vomiting Lego bricks onto a stack of SF/F books. Well, actually, this imaginary fabric I just described sounds pretty compelling.
Total cost: free!
Final thoughts: For an experiment, it turned out fairly well, but I'm not convinced I want to keep this top. I'd like to think I've moved on from me-made garments with raw edges, you know? I'm also dubious about the color and print -- after reading Steph's posts about colors that flatter, I'm trying to pay more attention to the colors that work for me.   

So, do I keep this top, or send it to join the others of its kind in the donation pile?

25 comments:

  1. I actually like that zigzaggy print in the middle! Do they all feel like swimsuits? I would finish the green top (as long as you'll wear it)!

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    1. Would you like the zigzaggy print, even knowing that it's thin poly-spandex? That one is less shiny/swimsuity than my green top. I don't mind mailing it to you if you can use it!

      I tried to finish the green top, but my machine refused and just chewed it up...so it's either wear it as is, or not at all!

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  2. I like some of that fabric too! I'd love to see more of the black and white print. Since the fabric won't ravel, you could just turn under 1/4" and hem, or twin needle.

    Did you consider making swimwear out of the fabric?

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    1. I've already tried all manner of finishing on this, but it looks terrible because my machine keeps chewing it up. And I have no interest in making swimwear!

      Do you want the black and white (and dark brown, but that's harder to see) fabric? I can mail it to you if you can use it!

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    2. Ha! Thanks for the offer - I actually live in LA so maybe we could swap fabrics some time. You're absolutely right that no good could ever come from those weird fabrics on the right without the help of some dye! Shame your machine hated the fabric so much, but then I guess you both hate it, so not a shame at all really!

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  3. I kinda like it and it does look good on you, but (and it is a big one) would you wear it in your climate or is it just going to be sweat central. I know that when I lived in England, I could have worn it, because quite frankly it doesn't get that hot and humid there even in summer (save for a few days in August). Now in Australia, that type of fabric in anyhing but swimwear would cause rashes and unpleasant smells if I'd just look at it :-)

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    1. I don't think I would wear it until fall and winter really kick in, but it's hard to say even then...I guess I can hold onto it for a few months and then reevaluate. And your description of the fabric and Australian weather made me laugh so hard!

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  4. mccalls 6078 is a good pattern for the type of top you're working on. pattern alterations to get that front drape are actually less complicated than that tutorial shows! you more or less extend that whole neckline up several inches above the shoulder creating a piece that folds to the inside.

    i do like the color of the top on you, but totally understand if you would never actually wear it. i stay as far away from polyester as possible. it makes me way to hot!

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    1. oops... "too hot" not "to hot"

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    2. Thanks for the tip, Lisa! I'll check it out next time I'm at Joann's. I was actually okay when I wore it for a (short) walk yesterday, but that was before it really heated up. I'm glad the color checks out, though!

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  5. I actually like the top on you, but it's up to you whether or not you would wear it. It might be a good layering top when the weather turns much cooler.

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    1. Hmm, when it gets a little cooler I'll have to try it with a cardigan and see. Right now, the thought of a cardigan is just too much to bear!

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  6. "And I am definitely never using this type of fabric again, not even if it's printed with kittens vomiting Lego bricks onto a stack of SF/F books." Bahahah! Now that's evocative writing! Love it.

    Put me in the "like it" camp, too. The green doesn't seem to overwhelm you, and I always like seeing a bit of strong color here and there... :) fwiw.

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    1. Thanks for weighing in, Steph! I appreciate your honest opinions. And who knows, maybe one day I'll make that print via Spoonflower!

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  7. Your bandana comparison made me think of the "disappearing" things (tie, pocket)in the Pattern Magic 2 book. Maybe you can keep the swimwear top around in case you go whitewater rafting or waterfall watching? Or any other activity were swimwear fabric might be of advantage.

    Mona

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    1. Thanks for the suggestion, Mona! I don't know that I have watery activities in my near future, but considering how little space this takes up in my closet, I think I can afford to keep it around for a little bit.

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  8. LOL - the horror movie plot about a bandana!

    Did you use a ball-point needle when you were sewing that fabric? It sounds like you were experiencing a sharp needle snagging on the fabric.

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    1. I did in fact use a ball-point needle! That was why it was extra disappointing when my machine threw a fit.

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  9. I was just going to suggest the same thing as Brooke....ball point needles are a necessity for this type of fabric, as sharp ones will keep snagging the finer threads the fabric ic made up of. And keep changing to a new ball point needle after a while if snagging stars again, as the man-made fibres can wear needles down quite quickly.

    Another way to make sewing this type of fabric easier is to use something like tracing or greaseproof paper beneath the fabric (but pinned in place) so that the feeder dogs/teeth don't snag the fabric from beneath, and just feeds through smoothly. Plus it helps to prevent the fabric fromm stretching where you don't want it to!

    Of course, whatever paper you choose to use should be very easily tearable so you can remove it once you've stitches the seams.

    Hope that helps.....Diane

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    1. Thanks for the tips, Diane. I did use a new ball-point needle, in fact, but I guess that wasn't good enough! I'll give the tracing paper a try, though, once I get the wherewithal to tackle those edges again!

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    2. I agree with Diane - might be a paper solution. I've used strips of tissue paper a lot of times (especially with vinyls that try to stick to the presser foot and feed-dogs) because I always have plenty of that on hand in my gift wrap supplies.

      You might also want to invest in a Teflon foot or a walking foot if you start running into more problems with other knits. (I have both of those on my want list.)

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  10. if the ballpoint needles weren't working then I definitely suggest using paper while sewing. It seems like an odd tip just it works!

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  11. Clearly I am old-lady ish. I would totally wear a swimsuit in the Pucci-esque print, and the black and white print, and the zig zag print, and ESPECIALLY in the kelly green print.

    To finish the arm holes, would it work if you just turned under the edges and tacked them down at the shoulder & underarm seams? That might also help with the slight line-backer effect.

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  12. I like the print, too... maybe you could make it into a bikini or something? Oh, yeah, your machine hates it. Never mind. :(

    I made a bunch of cowl-necks ages ago, using a bit of a non-standard method that works for 4-way-stretch knits. I kinda diagrammed it here:

    http://tanitisis.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/compilation.gif

    The diagram is for a pleated shoulder cowl, but it would work with a straight one, and it keeps the body below the bust fitting closely. That being said, I think the biggest problem with making your own cowl patterns is you really need to drape the fabric on yourself to see how much you need and how it's going to fall. I had the best results when I did this (pinning it to my shoulders and looking in a mirror, then measuring how much fabric it actually was around the neckline etc. Someday when I'm motivated I'll see if I can turn that into a proper tutorial... >_<

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  13. I like it on you also, I know that I seen shirts like that in the store. I think I would try to do it again a different fabric to see if you like it better.

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Thank you for taking the time to tell me your thoughts! I appreciate reading them and I try to reply to most, if not all, comments, especially when they are questions. I ask that you keep your comments polite, and if you're a spammer, don't bother because your comment will just be deleted! Also, if you're commenting on a post that's more than two weeks old, it will be moderated.