Monday, November 5, 2012

Thank You, McCall's 6610


I MADE REAL PANTS. Let me say it again: I sewed myself some wearable, non-elastic waistband, fly-front, they-make-my-legs-look-pretty-dang-awesome trousers. Not shorts, not capris, but real live honest-to-goodness pants! You guys, I am seriously so excited about these pants that I can hardly pull my thoughts together enough to write coherently. I mean, I originally intended these to be a muslin for the new McCall's 6610 (so new that I'm the first reviewer on Pattern Review!), but when they turned out well enough to wear out in public, well, I was just over the moon!

Okay, so I can't quite jump over the moon, but these pants really do allow crazy jumping!

Even better, not only are they presentable, they're ultra comfy, too. I guess that's what happens when your pants fit your body properly? It's time for a confession: usually when I get home from work or errands or whatever, I change as soon as I can into knit lounge-wear; in fact, one of my gripes about entertaining in my own home is that I can't just wear whatever, I have to actually look presentable. To that end, I have a lot of maxi skirts with elastic waists so that I can just flop around on the floor without being 1) uncomfortable, and 2) indecent. Well, with these pants, they're not restricting at all, despite looking fitted, and the slightly stretchy lightweight cotton is surprisingly soft. The fact that they're so high-waisted also means that I don't have to worry about back-gaping or muffin-topping. Which means that I don't feel the need to change out of these pants immediately; they're both comfy and decent enough to lounge and entertain and go out in!

Front: looks real!

Side: looks real!
Back: looks real! Errr, except until you notice how high the pockets are...

Maybe I'm only imagining that my pants
make me look like Audrey Hepburn ,
but a girl's got to dream, right?
Which actually brings me to my biggest beef with this pattern: even though I love the crotch curve draft, even though the instructions for sewing the fly front were amazingly simple and easy to follow, the rise of these pants is nothing at all like the pattern envelope models. Do I just have an astonishingly short crotch depth? Is it even a crotch depth issue? I don't know enough about pants to know. The yoke also seems much taller than on my favorite RTW jeans, but that can't be all of the problem, as the yoke starts where my RTW jeans waistband ends. On the McCall's model(s), it looks like the waistband should end slightly below the bellybutton -- higher than I would like, but still doable. On me, the waistband totally covers my bellybutton in front, and goes even higher in the back! I mean, there are high-waisted pants, and there are High-Waisted Pants. These put me in mind of Audrey Hepburn's famous high-waisted cigarette pants, which is not a bad thing, but just not what I expected from this pattern. The pockets are too high for me to access comfortably, too. As long as I wear a top that covers the waist, it doesn't look obviously high-waisted, but it's just a little weird.

You see? Under the shirt hides a ridiculously high waist!

Besides the high-risedness of this pattern, I also had issues with the leg width. That wasn't hard to deal with; it was just that I ended up taking the side seams in by over two inches to get the look I wanted, so it's still definitely worth a mention. I know they're advertised as straight-leg, not fitted, pants, but the way they look on the pattern envelope threw me off. Moral of the story: don't trust the models or the pattern illustrations.

Another place not to trust the directions: they instruct you to press and topstitch the back yoke the wrong way! My topstitching doesn't match at the crotch, but I decided that I didn't care enough to fix it. The insides are just pinked since these were originally just going to be a muslin, but the outside looks fine! I mean, fine aside from the huge yoke and un-shaped waistband. 

My last big adjustment was taking in the waist quite a bit. I originally cut a size 12, but my final waist and leg seam lines were probably more along the lines of what would be a 4. Also, the waistband is just a big long rectangle, instead of a more reasonable contour waistband. I understand that a rectangle is easier to draft/cut and saves more fabric, but I feel like it's pretty lazy on the part of the pattern-makers. I ended up making huge makeshift darts at the sides, but even then the final fit isn't quite perfect. Anyway, these waist-fitting issues make me think seriously about investing in a Thurlow pattern, since Tasia drafts for the pear-shaped woman. The scrooge in me thinks "Well, I already bought this pattern (for only $0.99!), I should just redraft the top to make it work for what I have in mind, especially since I already fitted the crotch," but the I-want-to-support-independent-artists side of me thinks I should just splurge on a Thurlow and go through the whole muslining process again. Thoughts?

Summary:
Fabric: A little less than 2 yards of dark blue cotton with a slight stretch (the same as my nautical shorts and my 1912 skirt!), a little bit of cotton voile for the pocket linings (the same as my 1912 blouse!)
Notions: A metal jeans zipper, hooks and bars for the waistband
Techniques: Putting in a fly-front, pants fitting
Hours used: Eight? I lost track after a while.
Will you make it again? I could happily wear multiple colors and fabrics of these pants (albeit probably with a lower rise) and never get tired of them. I've got 3 yards of coral stretch twill in my stash; is it too late in the year to be making bright skinny jeans?
Total cost: $3!!! $1/yd for the fabric, $0.50 for the zipper, and the hooks and bars and thread make up the last $0.50, if that.
Final thoughts: I've written before about how I have a love-hate relationship with my legs and how thick they are (especially compared to other Asians); that, and my relatively tiny waist make pants-shopping kind of a horrible experience for me. And even though I love the look of skinny, tapered pants, they usually make my thighs look huge. Oh, and let's not forget the one time I tried on a pair of skinny jeans and almost got stuck in them because I couldn't pull out my burly calves. Anyway, all this to say, when I find a pair of pants that fit well and look good, it's a minor miracle. As of yesterday, I had only two pairs of (non-knit and non-elastic-waistband) pants that I actually wear regularly, both several years old, because I couldn't find decent replacements/additions. With this pair, my pants wardrobe has just grown by 50%! And not to mention that these are incredibly flattering and totally boost my confidence. If I sound like I'm in love with these pants, it's because I am. So, McCall's 6610, even though you kind of suck as a pattern in some major ways, I am forever indebted to you for your easy fly-front instructions that enabled me to make these magically delicious pants.



Oh, and that top? It's another dolman-sleeve top, made from $1/yd printed cotton knit from Fabric Planet. I love the moody gray skies and the random blue wings -- I call it my Rinoa Heartilly top, which you'll understand if you've ever played Final Fantasy VIII. So this means that my whole outfit was $1/yd, me-made, and reminds me of awesome ladies. Gosh, sometimes I just love being able to sew so much!

46 comments:

  1. When it comes to drafting or significantly altering patterns vs buying a new pattern I ascribe to the belief that 'time is money' ( not to mention stress, frustration & headaches) If it's going to take me much more than an hour, & significant frustration, I have decided that it's worth spending the $$ on a new pattern!
    Maybe if I didn't work full time, & enjoyed spending hours drafting & tweaking, it might be different. But as my time is limited, i think the cost of a new pattern is often worth it!

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    1. Time is definitely money! I agree with you on the not-worth-the-stress thing. In this case, though, I did enjoy myself as I tweaked the pattern, probably because I wanted the selfish pride of saying I did it myself :)

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  2. Just think how awesome these will look will a close fitting knit top or pussy-bow blouse tucked in! SO CHIC! Regarding the rise/fly issues.... I thought the tech drawings for these looked super weird so I ended up splurging on the Vogue jeans instead (for an extra $3 or whatever) because they looked better proportionally. Not that I've made them yet or anything.... Maybe check out the Vogue to see if you like that pattern better. Otherwise, go Thurlow. Lladybird has been k-k-k-killin' it.

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    1. Hmmm, I always have trouble with tucked in shirts when wearing pants, but I'll give it a try! And I looked at the Vogue pattern too, but they weren't on sale that week. The things that get us to buy certain patterns!

      Lladybird = pants killer. Her Thurlows are so awesome.

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  3. I thought the legs on the pattern envelope were the worst example of photoshop I've seen in some time. I mean, in the closeup it looks like they erased part of the leg to get the shape they wanted. Still, those are high waisted - more than I thought! They look great on you, high waist or no - very Audrey Hepburn! I also bought the Vogue pattern instead because they looked less shopped.

    Love the FF VIII reference!

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    1. Yay, another FFVIII fan! You know, it never even occurred to me that even sewing patterns would fall prey to photoshop...yikes, that is sad. Well, now I know!

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  4. Great fit - you did an awesome job! Something happened when I tried to post this earlier, so I apologize in advance if you get this twice. The only time I tried on skinny pants I, too, got stuck in them. Since then I've stuck with other silhouettes. ;)

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    1. Oh phew, it's so good to know that I'm not the only one who's gotten stuck in them! Seriously, so embarrassing. But for some reason I haven't learned my lesson and I still want to make the skinny leg look work for me...will I never learn?

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  5. Oh, you definitely look like Audrey in those! That's the first thing I thought, even before you mentioned it. Great pants! I say splurge on the Thurlows, try the pattern, if it doesn't work, pass it on and you still have your notes on what to do with these pants. I'm a believer in trying all the patterns to find the perfect one ;-)

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    1. Awww, thanks, Leimomi! I was hoping it wasn't just my imagination. And hmmm, passing it on would mean tracing the pattern...I'm too lazy for that usually, but I might have to make an exception!

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  6. you can always use the crotch curve you fitted with the shape of the thurlow, for a good combo of fit and design elements, without having to totally reinvent the wheel...

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    1. Thanks for the suggestion, Devra! For some reason I'm okay with totally redrafting the leg, but the idea of frankenpatterning on a different crotch curve sounds super difficult. Go figure!

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  7. nice work on the pants, they look great! this summer i made a pair of mccalls shorts that fit pretty good, but i was majorly disappointed with basic details the pattern lacked. i immediately bought the thurlow when it came out (and i am a scrooge when it comes to pattern prices too!). i made them, they were infinitely better, and fit so much better that i hardly ever wore the mccalls version after that. long story short... the thurlow is worth every penny if you decide to splurge!

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    1. Good to know from another scrooge that the Thurlow is worth it! I've been generally pretty disappointed with Big 4 pants, both vintage and modern, so it might be time to take the plunge.

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  8. Gorgeous. Why not treat yourself to Thurlow in celebration of your thrifty wardrobe expansion?

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    1. Heh. Heh. Heh. *awkward laugh because the non-thrifty fabric hoarding has more than made up for the thrifty wardrobe expansion*

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  9. What great stuff you've been making lately! At first I saw the pictures and thought you were blogging about the sweater, because the pants looked so regularly pants-y. Then I scrolled down and thought you had bought the sweater since the post was about pants. Nope, you just make entire pro outfits now. Grats!

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    1. I'm a real boy now!!! Hah, but really, you don't know how excited I was to step out in an entirely me-made outfit. Secret time: I was wearing me-made undawears too! However, I have no intention of going into bra-making; that's one thing I feel no compulsion to learn. Shocking, I know.

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  10. Hehe, it must be pant week! I just blogged about my first pant making experience too. I am jealous of your wonderful fly front. What a great job and what fun pictures. Isn't great to have something comfy that won't leave you exposed.
    I LOVE your top too. That fabric is great!

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    1. That fabric made me squeal when I saw it! And your pants look fantastic too...yay for unofficial pant week! Can it be unofficial pant week if it's just the two of us?

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  11. Wow, that's a gorgeous fit... but yes, a very, very high rise. I gather waistbands that fall at the "natural waist" are usually rectangles, since they don't need to angle out to fit around hip curves. That being said, the Jalie pattern I use (which had umpteen million glowing reviews) has a crappy rectangular waistband pattern. I swap in the waistband from the Ellen Pants off Burdastyle.com.

    ... which has nothing to do with the fact that WOW THEY FIT! Taking in the legs that much is kinda crazy, too, but the crotch curve and hip was right. Yow.

    If you want a lower-rise pattern, though, I'd suggest you get yourself some Thurlows. Or something. Lowering these properly is going to be annoying.

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    1. I guess the fact that it's so high-waisted makes the rectangle more okay, except that the technical drawings seem convinced that they end below the waist, which makes a contour waistband more reasonable...ah well, I only paid a dollar for the pattern, what can I say? Thank you so much for revealing which pants pattern has the contour waistband! *off to download an Ellen*

      It's also thanks to you that I even wanted to tackle pants. Hopefully the Thurlows work better rise-wise...

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  12. These pants look fabulous, and you look fabulous in them! Isn't it the best, to finally have a pair of pants that fit perfectly? Well worth the fitting trouble I think!

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    1. It is totally worth the effort to have these pants! I've worn them an embarrassing amount of times already and they probably should go in the wash...

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  13. Wow, pants! These look really great. Some day, I'll finally sew something with a crotch (and fly).

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    1. Sewing something with a crotch and fly isn't hard...it's sewing a crotch and fly that fit that's so difficult ;) But seriously, give it a try -- with a dose of stubbornness and perseverance, making pants is totally possible!

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  14. These pants do look great! Unlike others, I don't subscribe to a low rise looking particularly flattering on anyone. Higher waisted trousers are infinitely more flattering and comfortable! It balances out your figure. Nothing on you look big, honey, so I think you must exaggerate your own flaws, as most women do. You look fantastic. If you already know how to fit these pants, why change patterns? Great job!

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    1. Personally, I think high-rise pants are more comfortable, but I like the look of a slightly lower rise. Maybe not as low rise as butt cracks, but with these pants I feel like my lower torso looks really oddly long. Maybe I'm just not used to the look. And yeah, I'm definitely critical of myself, but I'm working on it! :)

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  15. Fabulous! I too opt for higher waisted pants. Even though I'm skinny, I hate having pants that dig into my hips! Plus, pants stay on better when they sit above the hip!

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    1. They do stay on better! Especially if one's job/life involves a lot of bending over. But I still want my bellybutton to be able to breathe!

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  16. Oh honey those pants are gorgeous!!! Definitely 'looks real' hehehe. You got me so excited to make pants next! Yayayya I hope mine turn out half as good as yours.
    I think the high waisted looks good on you. I never used to like high waisted anything then when I started wearing high waisted skirts, I became open to wearing high waisted shorts... and now I think I am ready for the high waisted pants!

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    1. High waisted skirts = gateway drug for high-waisted pants. I think part of my resistance to the look is from growing up in the 80s...

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  17. WOW! Those are some great fitting pants! And if the crotch and hip fit, all the rest is just details that can be changed (lower the waist and pockets and fly, play with the leg shape, etc) so you can make a million billion variations. I'm still searching for that magical perfect fitting crotch curve. Sigh.

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    1. Good luck finding your magical crotch curve! (Gosh, sewing makes the weirdest sentences come out of my mouth...errr, fingers?) And I've just played around with my measuring tape and RTW jeans, so hopefully my revised rise works out for the next pair! *crosses fingers*

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  18. The fit on these looks AMAZING!!! So very well done! And it is never too late for some fabulous coral pants - I definitely think you need some in your wardrobe :) So very well done!

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    1. Meg. You make awesome pants that inspire me. If you say I should make coral pants, I am making coral pants.

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  19. Nice! You totally beat me to pants, and I mean really beat me - these look great!
    And I seventh or whatever the "buy Thurlow pattern" - I haven't had a chance to make full length pants with it yet, but judging from the wearable muslin shorts I made, I love the contour waisband and where it sits. They're the perfect rise in my opinion (right at the top of my hip). And like puu said, use the crotch curve from this pattern and you're all set!

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    1. Umm, hello, mini-wardrobe? You totally beat me to pants! Thanks for the feedback on Thurlow...between you and the rest of the internet, looks like I'm adding to my pattern collection again!

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  20. those pants are so good, i originally thought this post was going to be about the top, based on the first photos. :D congrats on great pants!

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  21. This is such a nice pair of pants Cindy! You inspired me to make a pair of this pants! LOL same as above, I thought you were to talk about the top when I first saw your photos!

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  22. These do fit great! Congratulations on making a proper pair of pants and making then so well! I've only just started to figure out that high waist pants suit me much better than low rise and I'm so going to look up that pattern at some point in the hopes that they work for me, so thanks for the tip. (On a side note, it makes me chuckle that we tend to refer to clothes that hit the natural waist as high waisted when actually they're just, well, waisted, hehe. The skirt I'm wearing today is really high waisted. It reaches my ribs! And has a belt that sits on the waist.) I'd be keen to see you make a Thurlow, they do look so amazing on Lladybird!

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    1. Huh, I never thought about that high-waisted vs. just waisted (but not just wasted) thing! Although I guess on me, my ribs end right at my natural waist, so those are the same thing for me. If you do make up this pattern, I hope it's everything high-waisted that you wanted it to be!

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  23. I can't believe you made these pants! They look like real! I know you said that but that's what I thought when I saw them. Well done. Pants totally intimidate me. One day.

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  24. I'm so impressed about this pants you've made and so eager to make one. I'm just a beginner and would like to ask for your advice how to sew the inseam direction? from hem of one legs to another to get the perfect match of the crotch line. Thank you

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    1. I'm afraid I don't quite understand your question...but when I want to get that perfect match up at the crotch, I start in the middle, at the crotch, and then sew down to the hem of each leg separately, instead of doing it all in one fell swoop. Also, lots of pins! Hope that helps!

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Thank you for taking the time to tell me your thoughts! I appreciate reading them and I try to reply to most, if not all, comments, especially when they are questions. I ask that you keep your comments polite, and if you're a spammer, don't bother because your comment will just be deleted! Also, if you're commenting on a post that's more than two weeks old, it will be moderated.