Saturday, July 27, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly: White



Can I just say that I'm so glad that the first color challenge for HSF was such an easy color? I had grand plans for a chemise, drawers, and corset ensemble, but then there was that tiny thing called moving halfway up the state that upset my plans. Nevertheless, I was still able to put together something for this challenge: a shirt for the gentleman! Alas, my top hat is packed away in a pod and en route to the Bay Area, so there will be no catching of hats here today.

Nope, no hat-catching, just sleeve-adjusting. 
A better look at how shapeless it is. Excuse the wrinkles, it was haphazardly packed up in a bag for a week. 
Back view: even less flattering.
Side slit, as dictated by the extant garment I was copying. 
Trying to undo the button at the neck...I don't know how men wear ties and button-up shirts; it's so dang uncomfortable to have all that restriction around the neck area!
Ahhh, much better. 

Since I was limited in time, I decided to stick with another shapeless historical garment made up of rectangles. While it's mostly based on the late 1700s men's shirt in Costume Close-Up, I think men's shirts stayed similar enough in style that this could still pass for anything from the early 1700s (maybe even late 1600s?) to the Regency period. 

Overall shape: pretty good, I think! 

You can see the underarm gusset in the top left of the picture. The ruffled bit at the end of the sleeves is actually just a ruffle sewn to a piece of twill tape. I basted the twill tape on to see what it looked like; it's removable should I decide to go with lacier cuffs or no embellishment at all. 
Hand-worked buttonhole! They're simultaneously not as hard as I thought they'd be, and yet way more difficult than they look. The stitch itself isn't hard to learn, but making them even and catching just the right amount of fabric is the tricky part. 
My hand-finished hem and slit...obviously I need to work on the invisible part of my invisible catch-stitching. 
Neck gusset, also done by hand. 

Thank goodness for the slow changes in men's shirt fashions, since this shirt is meant to go with my early 1700s-ish pirate coat! 


It's an all me-made outfit! Those are my Aladdin pants, which are a surprisingly good fit for the whole look. 
Going for the whole aloof 18th century painting pose, with one hand mysteriously tucked into my coat
Side view.
Back view. I really should've taken the time to put on some white knee-highs!
I am seriously in love with my own work. Those cuffs are just so ridiculously huge, it's awesome!

Looking through these pictures, I'm thinking that I might need to suck it up and just make the waistcoat at least, if not the breeches. It just doesn't look right with only the shirt and coat -- I need another layer of sumptuousness in there! I'm thinking a gold brocade...what say you?

Summary: 
The Challenge: #15, Colour Challenge: White
Fabric: 2.5 yards 100% cotton muslin, already in the stash. 
Notions: Twill tape and plastic "pearl" buttons
Pattern: The men's shirt in Linda Baumgarten's Costume Close-Up, with minor modifications for fit (narrower in the chest and arm circumferences, shorter overall, longer collar piece) and convenience (no reinforcements at the shoulder, no flat-felled seams).
Year: The 1700s
Hours to complete: Hard to say...I machine-sewed the major body seams and underarm gussets, but hand-sewed the neck gussets, collar, slits, and hem. I'm guessing about seven? 
Total cost: I got the muslin on sale with a Joann's coupon, so I'd say about $5. 
How historically accurate is it? 50%? The pattern is accurate, even if the materials and some of the construction isn't. 
First worn: Just for these quick pictures, but will eventually be part of an entire pirate costume 
Final thoughts: Looking through these pictures makes me pretty excited for when the whole thing is done! My sister thought it was awesome, Mr. Cation was unsure about the oversized men's shirt look but came around when he saw it with the coat, my mom said the whole thing was 好犀利 (very sharp), and my dad said I looked like the Duke of Edinburgh. I don't think that means what he thinks it means, but I get that the intention was a compliment about how fancy and historical it looked. 

And since this is a pirate ensemble, after all, well...what's a pirate without some treasure? 

We've got an old cardboard box instead of a treasure chest. 
Oh look, the treasure is a cat!
Could there be any better treasure? 


27 comments:

  1. You are so funny! A pirate treasure cat! I think I have a children's story along those lines! Your outfit is seriously awesome. Bravo on all the hand work as well on your shirt.

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    1. Thanks Amy! That sounds like a fantastic story :)

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  2. Wow, I love your coat! Did you make it? What pattern? Excellent work...

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    1. I did make the coat! Check out my blog post about it here: http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com/2013/06/historical-sew-fortnightly-pretty.html

      The pattern is Simplicity 4923, with modifications.

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  3. This is fabulous. I agree with the gold waistcoat. Or maybe green and gold. Walnut is definitely a treasure. (Awwww.)

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    1. I think green and gold might be too many colors going on; I don't want anything to compete with the fuschia lining! Gold would be perfect, I think.

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  4. Wow, that outfit is really looking fabulous! You're going to be one amazing pirate when it's all done. Nice to see Walnut again!

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    1. I figured it had been too long since he was featured!

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  5. wow! very amazing and awesome! love love love the coat!

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    1. Your coats are awesome too, and much more practically wearable ;)

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  6. Aladdin pants to the rescue! :)
    fantastic treasure.

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    1. Who would ever have thought they'd come in handy like that?

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  7. Gold (perhaps with a shot of bright pink like your lining?) brocade - yes! Can't wait to see the whole outfit in the end! It has been fun to see the pieces come together. =)

    lol - Walnut looks annoyed in that last photo. "Boxes belong on the floor, Mom. Put me down."

    ~ Brooke

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    1. I'm going to try my darndest to find a gold brocade with the fuschia in it, but since that's pretty unlikely, I may have to settle for just plain gold!

      He was not happy about my picking up his napping box! Shortly after the pictures were taken, he jumped out and onto the floor.

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  8. I say yes to the gold brocade waistcoat! The coat on its own was cool, but the shirt just makes it that much more awesome. I can only infer that the waistcoat would provide an equal amount of level up.

    You've also made me start thinking of making myself a full historical men's outfit. I'm not sure what era I would do, but there's something about a well fitted tail coat or frock coat that is so nice to look at.

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    1. Hahaha I like your inferring and agree! And yes, there is something fabulous about the fancy men's outfits from back in the day!

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  9. I'm so spoiled by historical clothing that the shirt somehow looks very improper on its own. :D But done very nicely. And I think invisibility of catch stitches on a fine fabric is kind of impossible, so no worry.

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    1. I know what you mean! It felt wrong to me too! So now I am definitely going to make a waistcoat to go with it all.

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  10. You have the best treasure! I agree a gold brocade waistcoat would look wonderful - you are very clever, the whole outfit is brilliant :)

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  11. Wow, I have no idea how historically accurate it is, but you look very suave and regal in it. I'm not sure that's how I would describe pirates but I guess you just oooze class :) And your treasure is the BEST treasure that could possibly be found.

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    1. I'm a fancy gentleman pirate who's grown rich and retired early, and can therefore afford to swan about in fantastic clothes without worrying about getting dirty!

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  12. I love the historical fortnightly finished object posts! This ensemble is, of course, dashing. I like thinking of pirate pants coming from a Drape Drape book. Almost as fun as thinking of pirates hunting for buried Walnuts.

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    1. Walnut would be a pretty fantastic find, although I don't condone burying cats alive...a little too Edgar Allan Poe for me!

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  13. I'm so pleased that the initial colour choice meets your approval! I thought white would be so versatile. I do hope people get into green though, even if they don't like it!

    The shirt is fantastic! It goes very well with the jacket, and the Aladdin pants (you found a use for them). You do need a waiscoat though (Seperates?). Cats are definitely the BEST TREASURE EVER.


    (really, really hoping this works, because I have trouble commenting via Google)

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    1. I'm actually pretty excited about green, since I have a lot of green fabric to choose from. And a waistcoat has been decided as a must, although I have so many separates I want to make and not enough time!

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  14. This ensemble is so clever and brilliant and I really hope you do find a pink and gold brocade to make the waistcoat as you'll do such an amazing job, I just know it!

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