Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Another 20s Dress, Old Sport!


I was pretty dubious about the drop-waisted, shapeless styles of the 1920s when I first started doing research for my Great Gatsby frock. I figured I was going to make my one evening gown so as to use up that elaborately beaded/embroidered stash fabric, then never sew anything from that era ever again. I  even went so far as to feel sorry for everyone who'd subscribed to my Great Gatsby Fashion board on Pinterest, because I wasn't going to add to it anymore. But I couldn't get that "robe de style" look out of my head! I wasn't actually in love, but I felt a tender curiosity.



So, when it came to my next sewing project, I decided to combine both the Stashbusting Sewalong dress challenge AND the Historical Sew Fortnightly lace theme and make another Gatsby dress, but a more casual one this time. It's more afternoon-outing-in-the-cream-colored-car, less lavish-party-at-the-mansion-in-West-Egg. Similar to my evening gown, it's a lace overdress, colored slip, and accents in the same color as the slip. This time, though, I went all jersey knits to keep it more casual (and also because it's what was in the stash). Funnily enough, just like how my previous make was a top from a pattern I originally purchased when I first started sewing, these fabrics are also from that same time period. It's one of my first purposeful fabric purchases (i.e. not just remnant bin finds for practicing on), but I loved the lace and the dusty robin's egg blue so much that I could never bring myself to sew them up because I was afraid I wouldn't do it justice. Three years later, I'm glad I waited for this.

I loved this random apartment complex's old-timey wooden door. The anachronistic key code box, not so much. 
Side view.
Isn't this fabric gorgeous? 

While they might not be the most historically accurate materials, my fabrics are still in line with the general look and popular color scheme of the time:

Lace over a pale blue slip with the same fabric as a belt...hmmm, that's pretty similar to the picture at the beginning of the post...
Pale blue!
More pale blue, with a simple gathered skirt.
And...more pale blue. 
Lace overdress with a gathered rectangle skirt, pale blue slip...are we sensing a theme?
Not the same shade of blue, but a lace overdress and purpley-blue slip nonetheless.
This tambour lace overdress actually reminds me a lot of the burnout pattern on my overdress. 

I think I did pretty well in interpreting this look for modern wear!

It's hard to see here, but I promise, the colored slip shows up much better IRL. 
I don't think it screams "HI I'M A HISTORICAL COSTUME!" at all, right?
Ignore my spaced-out resting face. 
On the other hand, maybe it screams 80s-drop-waist-dress. Please tell me it doesn't!

Summary:
The Challenge: Lace and Lacing...obviously I went for lace.

Fabric: 2 yards of burnout cotton jersey "lace" for the overdress, 1 yard of rayon jersey for the slip, belt, ribbon, and sleeve accents

Pattern: I didn't use a specific pattern, but instead came up with my own based on these dress patterns from the late 1920s. No shaping in the the bodice, kimono sleeves with an accent band in contrasting fabric, a wide scoop neckline with a bow, and a gathered rectangle for the skirt. The slip is the same pattern as the American Duchess tutorial I used last time, but with a more shaped neckline. Since I was using knit fabric, I bound the neckline and made the straps with the same fabric instead of using ribbon.

Year: late 1920s

Notions: Metal snaps for the belt

How historically accurate is it? I made my style lines as accurate as I could without buying an actual pattern. My research seems to indicate that knit fabric was made acceptable for daywear in the 19-teens by Chanel, but was usually made of wool or silk.  Rayon was invented, but not popular until the late 1920s, and then usually as a woven. That said, my M.O. is still accurate pattern, plausible overall look, inaccurate fabric, plus I'm making this more as a historically-inspired modern dress, so I'm okay with it.

Hours to complete: Ten, what with research, cutting, fiddly little binding strips, and handsewing snaps.

Total cost: I bought the fabric so long ago, it feels free...but it was probably about $10 in reality.

Will you make it again? When I made my first 1920s dress, I said it was extremely unlikely I'd make another one...and yet here I am, just two months later, prancing around in another one! I'd like to say this is the end, but knowing how these things go, I'll probably just turn around and do it again.

Final thoughts: The 1920s were one of the first eras of fashion that I was actually aware of, probably because of those horrible not-actually-1920s fringe dresses that pop up every Halloween. I wasn't a fan then, but thanks to the Great Gatsby movie, that look is back and I think I might actually like it now! So we beat on, [sewists] against the current, borne ceaselessly back into the past. Okay, but poor use of quotes aside, lace+dustyblue might be one of my favorite combinations ever. I'm also a fan of the full skirt in disguise that hangs straight down, and yet is delightfully swishy when I move.

Deceptively slim-looking...
But perfect for the Charleston starting a twirl!
Wheeeee! Good thing the slip isn't full, so there's no real danger of a Marilyn moment. 
Spin move!
Okay, allow me to indulge in just one more quote: “And so with the sunshine and the great bursts of leaves growing on the trees, just as things grow in fast movies, I had that familiar conviction that life was beginning over again with the summer.”  


And now for some unrelated business: Lucille, you're the winner of the Zippered Wallet Pattern! Shoot me an email so that PoldaPop can get the pattern to you. Alice, I haven't heard from you about the Interfacing Swatch Set! If I don't hear from you by Thursday, I'll pick another winner.

42 comments:

  1. Love this dress and super wearable. Not at all 80's. But then again I kind of sheepishly like those 80's drop waisted dresses!

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    1. The sad thing is, now that I look at 80s sewing patterns, I'm like, welllll it's not as bad as I remember...aaaahhh what's happening to me???

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    2. Tanit Isis loves dropped waisted full skirted dresses and I just sent her some patterns, from the 80s, that I think would suit her just great! You've just go to look past the styling...

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  2. I am wearing a shirt today that I made out of a lavender version of that very same lacy jersey! How fun. It's a lovely dress, and some times I wish I were willowy enough to wear things like this drop waist, but mostly I'm delighted to be too hourglassy for it! :-)

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    1. How funny that we get to be fabric twins! And hey, hourglassy is a fabulous thing to be!

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  3. WOW this looks great!! What a great way to bridge modernity and history...it's not totally historical, and it's not totally modern, but it's totally perfect! The world needs more clothes like this (:

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    1. Thanks! I was really trying hard to strike that balance.

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  4. You are a costumer at heart - reminiscent of a time period but not so accurate as to be out-of-place in the modern world. It's a great casual dress! It would only be '80s if you had added huge shoulder pads and a bow on your butt. =)

    ~ Brooke

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    1. You totally understand me :) And yes, I thought about the shoulder pad thing, but the butt-bow is the real kicker!

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  5. What a fabulous dress! I love how you mixed the 20s style with the modern. The accents finish it off beautifully.

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    1. Thank you! I love those blue accents mightily myself :)

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  6. You look lovely in this! That lace is beautiful! What a fun modern interpretation of the 20s. You pull it off well.

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    1. Thanks Em! I'm so glad I saved that lace for the perfect project...had I made it three years ago, it would NOT have turned out this well!

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  7. Oh the colour combo is really lovely, and what a great re-interpretation of the lace dress. Is the top part a version of your dolman sleeve top? I have that pattern printed and waiting for me for months!

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    1. While I didn't actually use my dolman pattern for the top, now that I think about it, it's remarkably similar! Dangit, I could've saved myself a lot of trouble by just using that pattern instead of drafting it all!

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  8. You totally rock this 20s style! And any frock you can get a rocking twirl out of is two thumbs up in my book!

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    1. Yes, you understand that twirl factor is extremely important!

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  9. This is really really cute! It really suits you and I love the colour and the fabric. Stashbusting win!

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    1. Thanks! I'm quickly discovering that this is one of my favorite color palettes!

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  10. What a great dress! I love it and it doesn't look 80s to me!

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    1. Thanks for reassuring me that I don't look like my childhood :)

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  11. It's very modern looking - great reinterpretation of the 20's!

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    1. I was really going for more of the cat's pajamas, but I'll take bees knees ;)

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  13. It is so delicate, so lovely! You look fabulous!

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    1. Thank you! I love the delicate look of the lace too, but thankfully it's not real lace so it's actually quite sturdy!

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  14. I love this on you! That fabric is so pretty, and the colors are just perfect.

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  15. Good job, old sport! I really like the inspiration photo with the scalloped pattern and rosette thingies on the belt that you put up too.

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    1. Yeah, that dress is one of my favorites too! Actually I think this style would look even better on you, since you're more gamine than I am.

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  16. I think this is just gorgeous! Love the colour combination and the style of the dress. And, no, it doesn't look like an 80s dress. lol! I was not too sure about 1920s fashion till I signed up for the Great Gatsby Sewalong and now, am kind of hooked! I made a pair of beach pajamas for the sewalong and learned so much about fashion and women's independence in the 20s and I just completed a drop waist dress (havn't blogged it yet). I just love the lace with the colour underneath it. Will you post the pattern for this dress? I would love to make a version for myself!

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    1. That GG sewalong was brilliant, right? I think it pushed a lot of us to give the 1920s a chance. And yes, I love that that's an era that brought a lot of independence to women.

      I don't know that I really have a pattern that I can post -- it's really just my dolman sleeve top with the long sleeves cut off, and then a really long gathered rectangle for the skirt. If you need more details, ping me!

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  17. Love love love your interpretation!

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  18. Greetings!

    I hope you do decide to like some 20's fashions... you're long waisted enough to look fabulous in the drop-waisted styles! Everything you hate about it, is everything I love... and I can't wear any, because I'm 5'2", and there is only 6 and a half inches between my bottom rib and my hip... what there is of me, is leg!

    I have to thank you for inducing me to not be afraid of a qi pao... refer problems above. I am now not afraid to fiddle with the pattern... I will go for a looser style, with the flared sleeve I think, more pre-1920's, funnily enough. There are so many fusion styles.

    This particular fusion of mod materials and old styling is so beautiful on you... have you checked out some of the 'sports' outfits and knits from that era? I think they would look glorious on you!

    And I have to ask... Have you shared Walnut and friends with the world over on 'Cute Overload'? They need you for extra cuteness!

    Have a Lovely Week,
    Regards,
    Jaya

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  19. SO beautiful! Lovely fabric, lovely combination, and lovely interpretation of the look. You really are amazing you know. I especially love the twirliness of it! Have you tried the Charleston? It's great fun, I recommend it!

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  20. Lovely! All these dresses are to die for. Make me want to get sewing again.
    Truly Devine

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Thank you for taking the time to tell me your thoughts! I appreciate reading them and I try to reply to most, if not all, comments, especially when they are questions. I ask that you keep your comments polite, and if you're a spammer, don't bother because your comment will just be deleted! Also, if you're commenting on a post that's more than two weeks old, it will be moderated.