Thursday, October 25, 2012

I'm Not a Bad Wife Anymore!

Mr. Cation can finally join the ranks of the significant-others-of-sewasauruses-who've-had-button-down-shirts-made-for-them. 

Not that I thought I was a bad wife before, but it's just that I've been sewing for a year and some and still haven't made anything for Mr. Cation...until now! I had promised him I would sew him a shirt for his birthday; that was back in August and I only finished it last weekend. Unfortunately, while my intentions were good, my execution was lacking. While there's nothing technically wrong with this shirt, it's still just a wearable muslin.

"What do you want me to do? Where should I look?"

Pocket close-up. Mr. Cation was pretty adamant about the pocket not being but on the bias.
Unfortunately, the fabric was uneven/warped so I couldn't quite get the vertical stripes to line up. 

See, it started with my choosing a fabric that Mr. Cation wasn't thrilled about (he thinks it's too blue, the plaid is too ostentatious, and the general look is too much like a shirt that he had in junior high, and we all know what paragons of fashion those junior high school boys are, right? Yeah, not the best mental association.), but at $1/yd, I figured it would still be okay? I'm not sure how that worked out in my head. At any rate, the fabric choice was strike one.

Back view...you can kind of tell how much ease there is. 

Strike two was choosing a less than optimal pattern for a starting point: Simplicity 7030 was only $0.50 at the thrift store, but I probably should've done some more research before settling on it. How do I put this delicately: this pattern is made for large beefy males? Okay, I'm being facetious, but only slightly; even the smallest size was cut extremely generously. My husband is an average Asian guy and he likes his shirts to be slim-fit instead of with oh, ten-plus inches of ease in the torso. I ended up stitching down the two pleats on the back in order to eliminate some of that ease, but it still looks a little big. Also, the button placket is just a folded over extension of the front pieces, instead of being a separate placket cut on the bias. This isn't a deal breaker in and of itself, but it's just one of those RTW features that would have helped make this shirt look more professional. (Incidentally, the the shirt cuff design does not feature the standard RTW placket, which I found weird. Easier, maybe, but what guy really wears a shirt with a continuous sleeve placket?)

Okay, now you can really tell how much ease there is. 

Strike three would be my not doing good measurement comparisons with some of his favorite RTW shirts before sewing this up. I did measure the arms and torso and was able to foresee some changes there, but I didn't think to check the collar or armscye. As a result, the collar is simultaneously larger (higher in the back, more surface area to the folded over portion, overall less refined looking) and smaller (too tight to go around his neck comfortably) than he would like. The armscye is also much too low, which means that the sleeve is consequently too roomy. I did my best to bring in the sleeve towards the hem, but there was only so much I could do without making it look ridiculous. In the end, the sleeves still have a good extra two inches of ease on his best-fitting RTW shirt.

As long as he keeps his arms down, it looks normal?
But alas, clothes are made for wearing and living life in, not for standing around and looking good. 

Summary:
Every time I look at this collar, I get really happy. 
Fabric: 1.5 yards of 60" wide, 100% cotton, blue windowpane plaid shirting from the FIDM scholarship store
Notions: 7 small black Slimline buttons
Techniques: Plaid matching, flat felled seams (I am so proud of the fact that all my raw edges are totally enclosed!), and interfacing a collar and collar stand? Does that last one even really count as a technique? I thought about making a long-sleeved shirt and trying a cuff placket too, but decided against it; good thing I didn't invest any more time into this wearable muslin.
Hours: A season of Buffy the Vampire Slayer. I never watched it when it was on, but recently started because hello, Joss Whedon, how did I not make that connection before?? I am totally loving his strong female characters and witty dialogue so, so much, although I still do a mental double-take every time I see Willow, because all I can think is "What the heck is Lily Aldrin doing there?!"
Will you make this again? I'm itching to give this another try, because I really want my husband to have a me-made shirt that he can be proud of, but I think I'm going to have to be patient and wait until we find a fabric he genuinely likes, and not just go haring off and buy the first cheap cotton I lay my eyes on. Lesson learned -- Mr. Cation does not like excessively loud clothing (whether in color or size of plaid), unlike me.
Total cost: $2.75...at least it was a cheap learning experience.
Final thoughts: Personally, I don't think there's anything too horribly wrong with it; it looks about the same (to me) as any not-quite-perfect RTW shirt...but that's just the problem! This is a me-made shirt, not RTW. It should be perfectly tailored to fit him and his preferences, so even though I don't think it's that bad, it's not my opinion that counts. I think I have to remind myself that when I'm wearing something I made that doesn't quite fit or that isn't quite the right color, it's only the knowledge that well at least I made it for myself that keeps me wearing it somewhat proudly; with this shirt, if Mr. Cation doesn't feel comfortable and confident in it, it's only going to be the guilt of well my wife made it so I guess I have to wear it that brings it out of the closet. Which is pretty sub-optimal. So even though I don't feel the pressure of oh-gosh-his-birthday-was-months-ago-I-should-really-make-him-that-birthday-shirt anymore, I still want to make another one.

Confession time! My one mistake on this shirt: I got overeager and snipped the seam allowance that was supposed to be folded over for the flat-felled seams, so there's a tiny bit on the shoulder that's not enclosed. Oh well, I doubt it will fray much, given the amount of wear this shirt's likely to get. Other than that, though, looking at all my perfectly flat felled seams makes me so incredibly happy. 

Even though this shirt has so many things going against it, I'm actually still pretty pleased with myself for making it. I learned a lot (I've never made a real button-down shirt with a real collar before!), I know what changes I want to make for next time, and even if Mr. Cation doesn't wear this out ever again (he humored me and wore it to church once), it was a profitable learning experience. Also, I may or may not have enough fabric left over to make a shirt for myself...

One last goofy picture: Mr. Cation learns how difficult it is to pose when taking photos.
" I don't know what to do with my hands," à la Ricky Bobby in Talladega Nights, a movie I've never actually seen.

52 comments:

  1. I like the fabric! I think you did a great job construction this shirt. He looks darling. You definitely need to make yourself a button down shirt out of that fabric. Imagine the Christmas card.

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    1. And a matching one for Walnut!

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    2. I'm imagining the Christmas card, but I think it should have a matching full skirted dress and a bow tie for walnut.

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    3. Okay, I've made myself a matching shirt! Still working on Walnut's, though!

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  2. Good job, I found. I think I will wait too one year of sewing practice before to do for my man. Have you read the book Sewaholic was advising: Shirtmaking by David Page Coffin. It can maybe help you to fit your not targeting pattern man?

    For Josh Weldon, have you seen Firefly? That is imo his best tv-show!

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    1. I don't know that one year is any kind of "requirement," but it did give me the confidence and skills (like topstitching in a straight line!) I needed to be mildly successful. I will definitely check out that book; thanks for the rec!

      As for Firefly, it is one of my favorite shows ever...and when I realized that Joss Whedon had done Buffy, too, well, then, I had to go check it out!

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  3. If you are looking for a slimmer fitting shirt pattern, I recommend Kwik Sew--they aren't cheap, but they are well drafted, and the men's shirts are fairly slim. I have a stick figure hubby, and I made the size small/medium with lots of length added for sleeves/torso and they fit him perfectly. :-)

    It's a bummer that your hubby didn't like this one, because I think it looks really nice on him. The color is pretty, the plaid is manly, and if he's anything like my husband, he's probably excited to find a shirt that the shoulders don't end at his elbows. ;-)

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    1. Ooh, thanks for the rec! I'll see if I can use a Joann's coupon or something to check out a K-S pattern. I have to say, I was put off by the name "Kwik-Sew" with the mispelled quick and all ;)

      Yes, the shoulders was the one thing I got right!

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  4. Hahahhahaa Mr Cation is just as funny and adorable as you!

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  5. I think your shirt is perfect!

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    1. Aww, thanks! Too bad Mr. Cation doesn't think so :(

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  6. Fabulous shirt Cindy. Great job on the pattern matching.

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  7. Well done on the shirt- it looks great if you ask me. Most of the RTW shirts I've examined have the fold over CF placket, so I've been annoyed with patterns telling me to do all the extra work of making one!

    I accidentally bought the wrong size of Vogue 8759 - Mr. Mc Call needed a bigger size - do you want it? I work in Culver these days. Swap you for swimsuit fabric!

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    1. Hmm, okay, then I guess Mr. Cation's dress shirts are just weird! Good to know about that fold-over placket look, though. As for the Vogue, I need to check and see if I still have the swimsuit fabrics when I get home -- I can't remember if I donated them or not! Regardless, I would still love to meet up with you sometime!

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  8. I think hubbies or partners should feel very privileged when they have something hand made especially for them, it looks great. Another pattern you could try is Burda 7359, which is a semi fitted pattern. I have made quite a few, it's a relatively easy pattern and looks fab. Happy sewing!

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    1. I think they should feel that way too :) Thanks for the pattern rec; I'll have to go check it out!

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  9. The second attempt always seems to go much better than the first. I made an attempt at a dress shirt for my fiance this summer, and used Burda 7767 (although I did have to buy it off their German website, which has different patterns than the English site). The muslin is okay, but at least wearable; the second version came together much faster (the cuff plackets and the collar stand were a bit tricky on the first attempt), and fits perfectly. And then I made everyone admire my flat-felled seams and beautiful top-stitching ;)

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    1. I would totally have admired your seams and topstitching! I mean, I can hardly stop admiring my own, and it's not perfect by any means. I'm definitely going to give this shirt another try, so hopefully it will go better the next time!

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  10. Shirts seem to have the highest 'oh my look at my pretty seams' factor. No matter how the fit turns out, they make you pull out your best construction skills. This gratification alone is worth sewing them :) Now that you've listed your mistakes, the next one will no doubt be perfect!

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    1. That is an excellent observation -- I totally agree! Btw, I love your mustard hoodie and am so thrilled that you visited my blog!!

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  11. Verry nice shirt. It don't look like muslin at all.

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    1. Heh, it wasn't supposed to be a muslin, but since the sizing didn't work out, I guess it is now!

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  12. Button-down shirts (for men and women) are kinda hard! Well, at least, I think so. :) I think you did a great job and the second one will be even better.

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  13. I would be over the moon with myself if I pulled of a shirt like this.
    Just saying, you're a little hard on yourself :)

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    1. Thanks...that is very kind of you to say! I am pretty pleased with the shirt itself, but I'm just disappointed that my husband won't really wear it after all that work I put into it!

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  14. Well done! I've been promising to make things for my boyfriend for over a year. The guilt has gotten to such a point that instead of making a nice simple (cheap) shirt, I'm making him a jacket. With no tailoring experience.

    If you want to try to reduce some of the ease on the finished garment, you could always try adding some vertical back darts. This shirt looks like it fits pretty well in the shoulders and back darts might help reduce the rectangleness of the garment.

    You can also use this video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRLCHj2mDFE to create a pattern from a RTW shirt that fits him well.


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    1. Wow, way to jump into the deep end! That's going to be a huge guilt appeaser for sure...maybe to the point that you'll have saved up some extra appeasement for the next project ;)

      I'll keep the back darts in mind for the next shirt, thanks! I think with this one the collar is weird enough that it's not worth trying to fix. I'll also check out that video rec!

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  15. Bahaha! The trouble with sewing for men. Still, you did GREAT work---especially given your handicaps in the pattern area. Would he like it better toned down with some kind of overdye? Even just a tea bath? Or are the fit quirks a killer.

    My husband is super picky, as well, it makes sewing for him both super satisfying (when it works out) and very risky.

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    1. You know, reading all about you sewing for Osiris really helps me get over being huffy with Mr. Cation about not wearing the shirt. Men are so picky sometimes! Anyway, I think the fit quirks are the real dealbreaker with this shirt, so I'm not going to bother with a tea bath. I'll definitely keep that in mind for the future, though!

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  16. I think this is quite impressive for a muslin! You know, my mother said that it was easier to clothe a girl than a boy, that boys were so much pickier about their clothes, and I have found it to be true. Men seem to have fewer rules about what they will wear, but the rules are strictly adhered to in all garments! I think this is a pretty good-looking shirt. Congratulations!

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    1. And here I was, thinking that without a bust to contend with, it would be so much easier to sew for Mr. Cation! Your mother is totally right!

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  17. Good job, especially for a first try! If he's really not going to wear it anymore, I might try bleaching it heavily (like soak in bleach water for a while to remove a lot of the color) and maybe even soaking it in a salt brine after. Bleach would tone down the color and the brine would soften the fabric, which would make it more drapey, and might hide the excessive ease a little more.
    i wonder if I need to attempt a shirt for Hubby now...

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    1. Thanks for the tips, Melissa! I'll have to try that bleach-brine thing sometime. And this post wasn't meant in any way to shame people into sewing for their husbands! ;)

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  18. Great job on your first button down. What if you put darts going up the back? Also, I never put my me-made clothing in the dryer, but recently did to shrink up a skirt that no longer fit. Worked like a charm. You could also over-dye the shirt black or navy so the checks show through but are much more muted & subtle.

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    1. Sigh, I already pre-shrunk the heck out of this cotton! Oh well. And I don't think Mr. Cation would wear this, even with a toned-down color, as the collar is just too weird for his taste :p

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  19. This looks great! Yeah, maybe it's a little bigger than the mister would like, but it's a totally wearable muslin! I STILL haven't made a buttondown for my hubs-- it's completely intimidating (and like your man, he's pretty picky about what he wears, so I'm afraid I would do tons of work and he would end up not wearing it).

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    1. Ah yes, because your fear is what happened to me :) But don't let my experience scare you! It was a pretty satisfying construction experience, even if the final product won't be worn, as I still learned a lot. You can totally do it -- I've seen your work!

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  20. It looks great, but I see what you mean about the sizing issues! I've used the Negroni pattern by Colette patterns and can highly recommend it. I know it's not cheap, but I loved the style and the instructions were fantastic, I learnt a lot from it.

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    1. Oh and my husband wouldn't wear anything remotely 'loud' either. I've yet to make him anything, partly because he is very fussy about styles and partly because I know it would have to be beige. Ugh :)

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    2. Hmm, I might have to check out that Negroni! I was put off by the camp collar business, but if I can franken-pattern it maybe I can make it work!

      And ooof, beige...that is so boring to sew with! Not that I'm accusing your husband of being boring or anything, but I can sympathize!

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  21. Oh man, I'm gonna miss your company in the bad wife club... ;) I still haven't made my husband anything! I love him in button down shirts, but he's much happier in t-shirts, so honestly I probably shouldn't go out of my way to make him a real shirt, but it just seems like I should! Maybe we'll compromise with a polo shirt...
    Your shirt looks awesome though - maybe he has a larger friend who might appriciate it?

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    1. I guess technically I'm not in the good wife club yet, as the final shirt isn't one he'll actually wear? A polo shirt seems like a good compromise between the options, but t-shirts are pretty easy too!

      Heh, even if there was someone to give this too, I wouldn't want to! I spent too much time working on it!!

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  22. Well, I haven't made Mr D anything since I've been his wife, but not only did I make him a shirt when we were courting, I taught HIM how to make a shirt. It's the only thing he's ever sewn, but he did a great job of it!

    Mr D is really slim, so for slim fit shirts I've actually had great luck using 1970s shirt patterns - they are cut so nicely for his figure.

    I really, really like that plaid btw! I want some for me! I find great deals on fabric at op-shops all the time, but I still really envy your $1 a metre finds.

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    1. Ooh, way to one-up everyone who makes their man a shirt! ;) Thanks for the tips about the 70s shirt patterns -- now I'll have a reason not to pass them up at the thrift store! And I can't be happier with FIDM for offering $1/yd fabric...I know I'm totally spoiled living so close!

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  23. I think every shirt on every male star on tv and in a movie has been altered to fit - I know it's the one alteration I always end up doing for every job. Ready-to-wear is never fitted enough. So if you followed a pattern, don't beat yourself up about it being big - they always are. =)

    If you want to cut the overall brightness (if you think it would make him more likely to wear it), get it wet and then through it in some diluted coffee or strong tea to give it a slight tech. It will tone down the blue and make the white more off-white.

    I missed the Buffy train originally too! I think I've reached season 4 or 5 on Netflix, but I've been side-tracked with Battlestar Galactica recently. (BG marathon is how I've been staying on night schedule on weekends right now, hehe.)

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    1. Thanks for the perspective, Brooke! Like I said to a few other commenters earlier, it looks like it may not be worth it to try dyeing the shirt, since Mr. Cation still doesn't like the fit. Ah well.

      I'm in the middle of season 3 right now and totally loving it. And BG is next!

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  24. I was just chuckling the whole way through this post! So funny! The shirt looks fine but men are pretty tough customers. Mine don't own a lot of clothing, but are so fussy about what they wear. I'm so embarrassed to admit I have been with my husband for twenty years and have an 18 year old son too and have made zilch for them, except for the odd Halloween costume!

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    1. Justine! You are a great wife and mom in so many ways, I think making shirts for your men is not something you need to worry about ;) And yes, having shopped for my brother, I know what you mean about fussy!

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  25. Aw you are so thoughtful to make a shirt for Mr C!! My guy has been asking for one too, so it might be high time I followed your lead! LOL There is definitely a bit too much ease in that shirt, but you did a seriously awesome job of that collar!!

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